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CP09 last won the day on August 29

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  1. CP09

    Michelin Primacy 4 or Pilot Sport 4

    Just seen this thread, so apologies for the delayed response. The chemist in me jut begged for attention:- "Another point is they say the molecule is much larger so less likely to leak through the tyres inner liner or at the bead line" Nitrogen molecule is 155 pm (picometers); oxygen molecule is 152 pm. That's pretty much the same size, so there will be no difference detectable in the gas diffusion rate - whether through the bead or the rubber. What will make the difference is that the pure nitrogen filled tyres should last longer as the oxygen will cause the tyre to perish more quickly from the inside (you can't do anything about the outside!). And, as already noted, the nitrogen is dry, whereas compressed air still has moisture in in. Colin
  2. I put it there to mark the main electric cable in the wall...
  3. I believe that there's a regular scheme of "painting", using water/rust resistant coatings. Applied by divers! There is only a limited life span - there's always a couple at Kirkcaldy for maintenance, and there's lots laid up in Nigg Bay - presumably waiting scrapping... Colin
  4. There is also the difference between summer & winter petrol. The Morris Minor had the fuel pump located high on the engine bulkhead (actually on the battery box - if anyone else remembers). In the summer, the suction required to pull the fuel from the tank and the upwards to the pump was very close to the vapour pressure of winter fuel (winter fuel being a little more volatile than summer fuel). As the temperature rose, the fuel system would easily develop a vapour lock at the fuel pump (ambient heat + engine heat) as the fuel vapourised in the fuel line. Moral was to make sure that one refilled the tank as appropriate, beofre a hot summer. That's one of the reasons that later BL cars had the fuel pump low down, near the fuel tank - to push the fuel along (Mini had them fitted in the nearside rear wheel well.... not a good location for an electric pump!)
  5. It's the Australian model ... (though is should be in kph)!
  6. Well, it might just be that the modification involved removing all the baffles from the exhaust system.. It is a US mod car isn't it? Colin
  7. looks almost like a turbo impeller. From Wiki:- "Turbo-back[edit] The Turbo-back (or turbo back) is the part of the exhaust system from the outlet of a turbocharger to the final vent to open air. Turbo-back systems are generally produced as aftermarket performance systems for cars with turbochargers. Some turbo-back (and header-back) systems replace stock catalytic converters with others having less flow restriction." so it didn't go through the valves! Colin
  8. By adding a mass to an object, you can change its resonance frequency - there was an Open university video on vibrations in one of the ferries (caused by the propeller blades passing the hull). By adding a mass to the vibrating plate, you change the frequency of vibration, and can reduce the resonance... it looks like cutting the roof line may have made the rear of the vehicle flex a bit more, leading to a resonance/boom effect. (anyone remember the old Hillman Minx convertibles? needed to be "straighted" at the garage after a year or two).. Colin
  9. It's the version that means you don't need to fit a helicoil! Just a bit of superglue & it'll be ok Colin
  10. Out of interest, How much is the shipping? It looks like it's sold in the USA... Colin
  11. With a relative using a battery powered wheelchair, we've realised that pavement parking forces wheelchair users (and baby buggies/prams) into the road which isn't particularly safe. Of course, modern estates are laid out without sufficient parking as a deliberate attempt to reduce car use.... Colin
  12. It's certainly not good to own a classic car unless:- either - you're handy with a spanner & possibly welding sheet steel (plus spray painting - with workshop) or - bags of money After a certain age, laying on my back under an oily engine trying to thread an oil filter cartridge in the rain, with old engine oil going up my sleeve loses its appeal. Having said that, I could carry out the 6000 mile service on the Moggie in under 2 hours (including topping up the dampers, greasing all the grease nipples etc. Cost of materials was about £15 or so (new plugs, points distributor cap, condenser, fan belt, oil gaskets and both filters) plus oil (a reputable 15W/40 - or if I could find it 20W/50). Cheers, Colin
  13. The Morris Minor gasket sets are made to the original specifications. If it leaked originally, it'll leak now.... The main gaskets (rocker cover, sump gasket, timing chain cover) are about 1/4" cork. They need to be somewhat "squigy" as the surfaces of the block and the covers are not machine perfectly flat (and it's easy to distort them by tightening the retaining bolts unevenly). As I noted above, a little seepage is not only normal for the crankshaft bearings, but really required to keep the bearing and gasket working (modern engine designs are much better for leak tightness). For a better - and more up-to-date discussion, try the MMOC (Morris Minor Owners' Clob) web forum - they'll be morecurrent then me. Cheers, Colin
  14. Certainly will be! Colin
  15. Used to have only "straight" grade oils-e.g.SAE20,SAE30,SAE90 (SAE 20 is used in the SU carburetter for the piston damper - roughly the same as "3-in-1"). Once Multigrade oils were available, these were used and were much easier to maintain - however, even today I note that some manufacturers recommend different viscosity multigrades depending on the expected ambient temperature. There's been a lot of debate about synthetic oils in the old engines. There seems to be a consensus (or there was when I had my Minor - about 7 years' ago) that synthetic oils were not recommended. The protection offered was slightly better for starting (better oil film on bearing surfaces, but they also seemed to creep well - this includes a bit through the old cork gaskets... Another problem with synthetic multigrades is that they aren't readily available as 20W/50 - only thinner grades. This means that the oil film is slightly thinner. It leaks down the valve guides and past the piston rings better! Also the A series engine was designed to drip lubricate the read crankshaft bearing - just a little, but the clutch bell housing has a drain hole and "giggle pin" as part of the design. Modern engines are usually drip free As liner 33 says, at 6000 miles the old petrol engines would need an oil change to get rid of the contamination (if nothing else, synthetics are expensive!), and I don't think anyone's run their engine for longer without changing the oil (oil's cheap compared with any engine rebuild!) One technique that's more difficult these days is to use a thicker than standard oil to "quieten" an engine/gearbox/rear axle. If the pistons rattled a bit - or the valves chattered, using (say) SAE 40 oil instead of SAE 30 would quieten them down - same for worn gearboxes and differentials.. Useful when selling (and I'm sure that doesn't happen today) Cheers. Colin