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jon.l

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  1. Thanks for clarifying Tony Jon
  2. Yep that makes sense, cheers In the grand scheme of things am I going to be better off with the right offset/size wheels for adjustments sake? Ie can the car adopt a wider range of settings with the right wheels? I'm guessing yes but advice from those who know is always good. Cheers Jon
  3. Forgive me for sounding stupid but when you say moved I take it you mean adjusted as opposed to physically changing components?
  4. Thanks for replying Tony, if for example I was to fit a set of 8j wheels with a low offset (et10 or et0), are we saying thats really not a good thing or can the car still handle well on these. It's unlikely I'd do that but I'm interested in asking the question Jon
  5. Reading a few posts over on MX5 Nutz about the effects of lowering the offset on an MX5 have lead me to wonder if there is a point where you can still retain a large part of the cars characteristics (which we all know and love) but also have an increased contact patch/wider 'stance' (I hate that word)? I know that generally there are two types of people, those fit the wheels that make the car handle the best and those that fit the wheels that make their car 'look' the best, but can there be a happy medium where one can, say, make the look a little more aggressive or even just open up more choices of wheels? I understand past a certain point you are changing a lot of fundamentals in the geometry of the suspension, I wouldn't be looking to push that far, just to perhaps fill the arches out a little. Cheers Jon
  6. I presume a decent drop and geo wouldn't put it far off the equivalently altered soft top? I'm currently driving a BMW 130i, which is a great car, just not much fun to drive, if I get another '5 I'd like to hope it would be a step in the right direction in terms of handling and fun
  7. Thanks for getting back to me folks, I had a feeling you'd have done something about it, hence me asking here first I intend to go have a look an RC local to me at the weekend, however I'm not sure what to expect on account of the manufacturers settings, it should be easy enough to get a good idea though. To all intents and purposes the soft tops are a lot cheaper, I just fancy the added security of the hardtop (and they seem to be holding their value more aswell:) I've read praise from Tony before of the NC MX5's but are they really that good?
  8. Hello all, it's been some time since I last posted here, however as I know WIM is the place to discuss all things MX5 I thought I'd pose a question. I'm considering an NC MX5, whilst the reviews I have read (magazine and owners) may not be overly positive I know that the car can literally be 'transformed' by lowering and having a good geo done. My question is whether or not the same principal applies to the RC (folding hardtop) model aswell, I know there is a little extra weight up top, so does this affect geometry considerations? I know that the soft top model seems to be getting more praise but the folding hardtop seems like a safe bet, especially over the coming months, I'm just wondering if by choosing that would I be potentially compromising the handling characteristics of the car? Logic tells me that 35kg~ won't make much difference but I'm no expert Cheers Jon
  9. jon.l

    Stiffer ARB's?

    I presume that upgrading both at the same time, following (or along with?) upgrades to shocks/springs is the best idea then? I'd guess there is a trade off of having stiffer bars?
  10. This thread has popped up over on MX5 nutz.... http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=57397 Now I for one understand that though ARB's may be good to reduce roll to a degree, they also limit the independant suspension arms from working so..er independantly. Is this right, in not so many words? A friend of mine had a stiffer ARB, albeit on an FWD car but on a long sweeping bend the rear decided to overtake the front and he found himself buried in a fence! We suspect due to the outer rear wheel lifting as a result of the roll bar 'linking' them effectively. I also gather they aren't too good in the wet either, sure I read that on here somewhere?
  11. There's logic in that statement Maybe it's not the bushes after all, there's always the possibity of another problem accelerating the wear. Anything is possible with cars it seems
  12. I was chatting to a motorfactor regarding this the other day, as I have recently replaced both lower arms on my Mk4 Golf. It seems unfortunately the pattern part industry use a lower grade of rubber bush that deteriorates faster under normal conditions than a genuine example (in most cases). Cost being the major factor of course. Apparently for certain vehicles you can specifiy a 'heavy duty' arm (which has a stiffer, and I presume closer to OE quality bush) but I can't say I've spent much time on this subject. When I worked at an independant dealership customer complaints of having new lower arms on their Fiesta's/Mondeo's/Saxo's etc after a year or so were commonplace and although the part can be changed quickly with the right tools its not ideal when you have to explain (without saying it outright) that the parts are not designed to last
  13. Kumho KU31's seem to get good reviews from the Integra drivers, as they have a nice stiff sidewall (moreso than the T1R but less so than the AD08 I gather) but are abtou £40 a corner tops from most online retailers. Also good wet weather capability aswell I understand..
  14. So I got stuck in earlier and drained the diff oil, and this was on the end of the drain plug (which I presume is magnetic) Not sure what to make of that, but it all came off the drain plug before I fitted it and refilled the diff. In all honesty I can't say I've noticed any difference... still clunking Also, whilst there I looked at the rear arms/shocks and bushes, and this is what the lower shock bushes look like Though the bush isn't actually detached it's distorted and is sitting at an odd angle. I'd be willing to bet that there is metal on metal contact between the shock and the arm somewhere, which probably isn't helping. Thoughts welcome Jon
  15. If it's a stock alarm/immobiliser then it will be built into the ECU, you'll notice a green picture of a key flashing when you take the key out after stopping the engine. If it's this type as mentioned above the easiest way is to plug an OBD2 reader into the car, if there is a fault it should be displayed. It may have a separate system (normally on the older stuff but I wouldn't be surprised to see otherwise) that is linked in a different way. Certainly on those ones water can find it's way into the siren and screw things up. Jon
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