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MIP

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About MIP

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    BMW Z4 3.0si

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  1. Yea, thanks Tony, I think bushes probably make sense as a first port of call, given the mileage of the car and the effect it had on the rear. Powerflex offer options that are more standard: https://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-series/product-details/Front+Wishbone+Rear+Bush/1304.html Or a stiffer performance variant that adds '+0.5° of caster'. https://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-series/product-details/Front+Wishbone+Rear+Bush%2C+Caster+Offset/11515.html Any good reason I'd choose one over the other? Also what effect (if any) would my out of spec front camber have?
  2. I didn't see them do the alignment so not sure if weight was added, but yes the car was lower with the eibach springs (has been since I bought it).
  3. I'm not sure how I'd find out the diff in offset. I know they are apex arc-8's https://www.turnermotorsport.com/BMW-E85/c-348-apex-arc-8-wheels Thanks for the KW tip, maybe more worth looking at BC as they offer a choice of spring rates. It's a tricky thing to buy, I want to end up with good road comfort as I'm only on track rarely and not looking to break any records. I've never noticed any thump from the brake pedal, brakes feel good. The tramlining does snatch at the steering. Going down a motorway, you can often feel it tugging a little around the center left and right (even when not in the rutted slow lane). Prior to the rear bushes (I went for the softer road one's rather than the 'black' track one's), it felt pretty wayward over bumps, almost pivoting around your hips a bit like an oversteer sensation. It's much better now, but still tugging through the steering wheel. I will seek out the last geometry print out when I'm home (hopefully it's not been lost in the recent house move).
  4. They're Toyo T1S or T1 Sport I think on the front (what was on the car when I bought it). Goodyear Eagle F1 asymmetric 3's on the back.
  5. My Z4 (3.0si) has always been quite a tramliney car since I bought it roughly a year ago. It's been modified by previous owners, different wheels (I'd say they fill the arches more so probably have more offset, and the rears are now staggered/wider from 235 to 265, keeping the same rolling radius) and eibach lowering springs, and undoubtedly it's going to be effected by those things, as nice as they look: I've done a few things so far, all have improved it but I'm not quite happy with it yet and want to do more. Here's what I've done - Reduced tyre pressure (from 36 to 31psi) - quite a big effect overall, going lower doesn't have much effect - Changed rear trailing arm bushes to powerflex - made the back end feel quite a bit less wandery - Changed rear tyres (to eagle f1 asymetric 3 from toyo t1s) - didn't have much effect but I needed new tyres anyway - Got the alignment done at a local place - Everything is in spec now, apart from front camber which can't reach spec due to the lowering springs Things are better, particularly at the rear, it felt unsafe on motorway before, it's stable enough now but does still get pulled about (tugging through the wheel) quite a lot more than my previous car (S2000), I'd like to improve it further. Things I'm thinking about doing: - Replace front-end bushes with powerflex - Replace suspension with BC racing or KW coilovers: Then I could adjust the right height up a fraction, not as height as stock but maybe 10mm up to get a bit more travel and maybe allow the front camber to get more in spec - Replace front tyres - Get WIM to customize the geometry to try and improve things I'd like some thoughts on the above, what I should prioritize doing, anything I'm not thinking of?
  6. Worn rear tyre: 3.5mm, Good rear: 6mm Both fronts: 4mm inside edge, 5mm outside
  7. Do you think I should just replace the very worn one, or do both as a pair?
  8. Ah crap, not good. Today on the way home the vibration was quite signifigant on the motorway. More so as I dropped to 70. And not just through the wheel, through the seat, felt like the whole car juddering. I've been having a look at it in the garage this eve, and noticed something very signifigant. Took the rear wheels off to start with and this is what I could see... Rear right: Rear left: As you can see, the rear left is signifigantly worn down and will need replacing (crap! not had these rears that long!). There's also a thin rib of rubber along the center (with small evenly spaced kinks in it). When I was doing the brakes, my friend did notice that the wear was uneven, but I hadn't looked closely with them side by side and realized how serious the problem was. Last time I saw somthing like this was on my friends MR2 when one of his brakes where binding. So that's what I've looked at first. I could turn both wheels by hand, so instead, with the car on stands, I tried it running in first gear and both wheels turned evenly at first, but eventually the left did stop and all power was going to the right, so... maybe. What I've done on both rear calipers is taken the sliding pins out, cleaned and re-greased them, and check it slides smoothly (or is it the actual piston that seizes in the caliper with this type of problem?). I've swapped left and right and gone for a drive down the bypass, and no juddering this time, so maybe I've got it. I hope I've got it figured out, but I'm all ears to any other suggestions. I'll have to get new very rubber soon, but I need to be reasonably sure I'm not going to rapidly destroy the replacment tyre. Does the thin line of rubber down the center of the worn tyre indicate anything in particular or is that just how it wears?
  9. Cheers Tony. I'm not a long way off next set of tyres on the front, so I'll get you guys to double check the balance of all four wheels when I get that done.
  10. Hello, and welcome to my first post on this forum. Firstly, about me and the car... I'm Matt, I've got an 04 Honda S2000. I've a nice set of Eagle F1 Assymetrics from black boots, and Tony has done an excellent job on the geometry (quite a few months ago now). I heard about WIM by recommendation from members on s2ki. The car has KW v3 coilovers, steering rack spacers and megan toe arms. Tony pointed out that the toe arms are redundant in the setup as there's enough adjustment as stock, so I'm thinking I will put the stock arms back and get it aligned again eventually (particularly as the megan arms seem to be rusting at a a slightly alarming rate). I've fairly recently added a Greddy Spectrum Elite exhaust as well, and last week some EBC blackdash brake disks, and hel braided hoses. So, onto my subtle problem of the day. And it's one of those annoying problems where I don't know if it's just me going a bit mental and being over sensitive or if there's an actual problem. I fitted new brake disks the other week, so it may be related to this (maybe not). I didn't notice an problems after fitting, but I've been focused on how the car feels due to this change, and I'm detecting some vibration through the steering wheel while maintaining a constant speed at 80mph or so. However, the vibration isn't enough that you can physically see it, and it's doesn't occur all the time. With the shocks being a bit hard, I don't know if it's just the road surface and me just being focused in on it. I got the wheels balanced at a local MOT place today, and they've attached weights here there and everywhere as they do, but I think I'm still detecting somthing. Other things that may or may not bare any relation, I did have my rear hub nuts replaced due to an occasional clicking when pulling away (quite hard), a few months ago. The replacement hub nuts where torqued to a higher (honda revised) setting than the originals, by Honda. I just thought I'd see if there where any suggestions for my fairly vague sounding problem there. Or if there's a more scientific approach the WIM can do maybe? (e.g. some on-the-car spin balancer)?
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