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Wozza's Honda Accord ICE Thread


djwozza
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As some of you may know, the previously Supercharged Lexus IS200 is no longer mine, and has been replaced with another Japanese whip, this time of an equally fast Honda variety but with over twice the economy of the Lexus. So to start, here is a few pictures....

 

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Collection Day

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The road I live on is narrow & I have no off street parking, luckily I have a mate who is even more heavily into his ICE, only lives 10 mins away, who has a nice sized garden with offstreet parking for a few cars & a high fence to keep out prying eyes. The only problem is his availability as he works shifts for the AA & is a busy man. My install is limited to progress as & when he is available on rest days etc.

 

The plan is to sound deaden the car as effectively as possible (within reason). Obviously good quality sound deadening is expensive, and some people go much much further than I am planning to, or can afford too. Also this stuff weighs a heck of a lot, as do the other parts of the build, 25mm & 18mm MDF constructed Subwoofer Box, heavy amplifiers & a subwoofer that weighs approx 45lbs on it's own!!

 

I am also going to be running two batteries (096) 12v AGM type that I have picked up for an amazing price. "The AGM battery is manufactured using AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) technology and is specifically designed for today's luxury vehicles with the latest stop start system. It has 5 times the capacity of a conventional acid battery and provides increase cycle durability and service life for stop start and high specification/current drain vehicles. They are maintenance free and 100% leak proof, making them totally safe to mount in the boot." 

 

These will be fed by 0AWG wiring from the front battery to the one in the boot, from there 0awg cable to 0awg fusebox, then again 0awg to the amplifiers them selves, with a 0awg-4awg solid metal cable reducer so the voltage loss will be absolutely minimal. Also the engine bay will hace "The Big Three" in 0awg cable, so I will get every single bit off juice possible when needed from the car Alternator & two battery set up. There will be a return Earth Cable in 0awg to the engine bay as well, some say this is overkill, but it should ensure as minimal interference or grounding issues as possible. 

 

On my Lexus there was ample trunking space down the sills inside the car to run 0awg cable, but upon inspection there simply isn't enough room to run 2 of these big cables in this space. I have spoken to a couple of owners from ther Talk Audio forum (both with Accord Tourers) and they ran the cable to the boot out the passenger wing and thru some 25mm dia plastic trunking conduit to the rear of the car then up into the boot. I will be doing this as well.

 

After all that talking I am sure you need a break so here are some pretty pictures :D

 

New AGM Batteries 

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Battery Terminals Type 1

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Battery Terminals Type 2

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JL Audio 300/4    Amplifier

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Front component speakers JL Audio C2-650  

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Coaxials for the rear doors Pioneer TS-G1723i - 6.5" 16.5cm 3-Way 

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AudioControl Epicenter Bass Controller

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JL Audio 1000/1   Amplifier 

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Subwoofer JL Audio 12W7-3  

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So the install started on Sunday, I've been using a combination of 4mm Silent Coat, 2mm Silent Coat,and some 9mm thick CCF sheets to deaden panels and cut down on unwanted noise.... a lot of smaller gap sin the rear of the roof were layered up, and once everything was level, then a full coat or two was applied as the sunroof is quite well reinforced with cross members etc.

 

Front seats out first

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then rears etc 

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then headlining

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Just a quick note, the rear deck cover is in two parts, a hard plastic front section and a carpet covered cardboard rear section, there are silver screws around each 6x9 hole, and these hold the two parts together. It took ages to get the rear shelf off as the brake light hits the rears screen and it hasn't got enough clearance to pull off to get out of the way etc. Separating the shelf made it much easier going back in, and pretty surer it would have taken us a fraction of the time to remove it. Once the screws are out, pull up the front edge of the carpeted section and get that out the way would probably be the easiest for removal. 

 

filling voids

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Rear deck coated above and below

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more roof deadening

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Getting really dark so needed some light

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Don't forget in front of the sunroof too!!!

The cage that houses the Courtesy lights and sunroof controls & alarm sensors needs double sided sticky

foam tape between it and the roof, otherwise with the amount of bass going thru the car would make it rattle

really badly, and I didn't fancy taking the roof lining out again either to fix it later!!

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I hope these pics will help anyone attempting this kinda job, but obviously my car is being soundproofed for an ICE install, not just general soundproofing. I have much more to do including the boot, bootlid and the doors yet, will take a fair while longer than guesstimated, but the job is being done pretty thoroughly, so slow & steadfast will get the best results......
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£200 on Silent Coat 4mm & 2mm Bulk pack and a 9mm thick CCF decoupling foam pack. I need another 2mm bulk pack as I still have a boot & 4 doors to go and only have half the 2mm pack left...

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You're a fast worker Wozza! :D This is going to be an awesome blog.

 

How are your front seats, do you get any movement in them when you accelerate, brake or corner?

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just as a heads up mate, cover the boot lid (as you know) but also do something to the inside of the metal parcel shelf... it is in 2 layers of metal spot welded in places... whilst you have put stuff on top and bottom, you need to put something in the middle too or it will rattle like F*ck when the bass kicks in... it vibrated loads on me and my sub wasnt even turned up 1/4 volume

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Front seats seem fine Rich. Adam I know exactly what you mean, I stuffed in some CCF and when you bang the shelf top or bottom it's just a dull thud. When I come to do the doors, this CCF (closed cell foam) will go behind the speaker as it will break up any standing sound waves. The Silent Coat helps to deaden the panels in two ways, firstly by adding mass (1 square metre is over 5kg), but also it rubber/bitumen composite is formulated to reduce panel resonance by road noise & very loud speakers. Instead of hearing a car drive down the road with a loud stereo & the car sounding like it's farting, if applied correctly & in enough layers, it should cut all that nonsense out, even in a very loud system like mine. The benefits are two fold, no farting noises from outside of the car, and an even greater benefit is the sound from the speakers is kept inside the car thus making sure you get all the sound you have paid for......

 

Anyway things have ground to a halt this week as I have been in hospital since Tuesday with suspected meningitis so things will have to wait until I am fully recovered before I can get back to it.

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Take it easy Wozza and don't be anxious to get on. Meningitis is a very dangerous illness so getting it cleared has to be your number one priority.

 

Good wishes and I hope it all goes well for you.

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