MalvernDan

I don't Tony no, is that something I could measure myself, if I have googled correctly it is the angle running a straight plane across the lower and upper balljoints and a vertical upright in the centre of the tyre?

I guess the job is for me is to find out why the drivers side front corner is not compliant, I just need to get it somewhere that can identify that and then fix or offer advice on what needs to be fixed. However the worrying thing in the back of my head is if the chasis is bent but I guess I need to find out.

Sorry for my lack of knowledge Tony but when you say all three plains are you referring to Camber, Caster and Toe and which case the front current settings? Bear in mind that the fronts were only set like that because the front right was dictating, front left they were able to achieve fast road settings but needed to set it to the settings as per front right. I did feel they rushed the toe settings on the front and could have achieved 0 toe on the front given a bit more time. They mentioned that the only way I could achieve more negative camber on the rears was if I were to have coilovers fitted or lowering springs. I think it may be time to give you a call and discuss my options further! Thanks Dan

Give this a go Tony https://flic.kr/p/SiV8UV

Hi All, So the saga continues! But first can I say at the moment I am sapping the knowledge of this great forum and I do want to have WIM do a geometry set-up for me but until I am confident that the issues I have, that won't allow settings to be achieved, are resolved I don't feel it is worth the trip to WIM. So a few weeks ago I released the lower strut bolts at all four corners, drop the car back on the ground, bounced the car at the corner and then torqued the bolts back up. Today I went back to the company that first did my alignment around 3 years ago and asked for -1.5 on the rear and -0.5 on the front, as you can see on the attached image, again they were unable to achieve those settings. The main concern was on the Front Offisde corner and the setting you see in the image was the absolute maximum they could achieve, showing me the adjuster bolt at the maximum. They offered some advice in that saying that the lower arm could be bent or there could be an issue with the hub, I have replaced both within the last 12 months, new hub and a second hand arm from a reputable re-seller. Really I am looking for some advice on how I could identify the problem that is causeing the lack of travelling on that camber adjust on front right. They mentioned that the settings could be achieved fine on the front left. Thanks Dan https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipPTdx9X6bQtPUqeArJZACa_wf-vlbKjuPY_E_vl

and at also mostly cold tyres. It seems the norm to increase the front tyre pressures (MX5 Mk1) by 5-10 psi for Autosolo to help to prevent sidewall wear. As the car is used for road driving as well, albeit just at a weekend, then the suggested castor adjustment may be undesirable but could the fast road set-up be a happy compromise? Thanks again Dan

Thanks for the replies folks, I guess I will stick with the Rainsport's then. I need to learn a bit about tyre pressures and how the pressure effects grip during 90 degree turns at high revs, lowish speed. Dan

Hi All, A couple of questions: 1, Suggested tyres for Autosolo on an mx5 mk1 15" 2, Again for Autosolo I have already a pair of Uniroyal Rainsport 3, depending on the answers to 1 above would I be OK misusing tyres on the car as long as I keep the same per axle? Thanks and Happy new year, Dan

You know what guys that may have happened. When I did the suspension, albeit around 3 years ago now so memory isn't great, we used a ramp that lifted on the strengthened ends of the chassis rails. Like I say my memory isn't brilliant but at the moment I can't remember torqueing up with the wheels back on. Also on the front drivers side I had to replace the lower arm last winter due to me damaging the ARB drop link fixing on the arm trying to cut out a seized droplink bolt. Again when I reattached the replacement arm and then the suspension I am pretty sure the car was still off the ground!

Incidentally it was the Caster and Camber that they couldn't achieve, they got the toe fine!

Thanks again for the info, good to hear I haven't got that job on my hands over the winter! What would you suggest, a trip down to you guys so you can have a look what's going on?

It was OK but the car pulled to left a bit, I replaced all the discs and pads when I replaced the suspension so I knew it wasn't a warped disk. So you think that with 22 year old bushes in the lower arms that you should still be able achieve the fast road settings.

The first company I used have a lot of knowledge on MX5s, the second I didn't rate the guy at all, he would normally only adjust to OEM.

Morning Tony, the car is on standard shocks and springs, I replaced them about 2 years ago.

Hi All, I have had my MX5 for 3 years now and have had the alignment done a couple of times and on both occasions they have been unable to achieve the fast road settings. The Caster I have been aiming for is around 5 degrees and they have only achieved about 3.5. Then camber I have been aiming for -1 degree front and -1.5 on the rear. They have been only able to achieve -0.34 on the front and -1.15 on the rear. The toe has been achievable. Is this a case of worn bushes preventing achieving the settings required? Thanks.