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Thoughts on my 350z geo :-)


RobPhoboS
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Hi guys, a very long old time since I've been here but HAVEN'T forgotten  :thumbsup_anim: 

I'm just in the process of making adjustments to my car, specifically the handling, largely for b road driving and a few track days.
It's on the 18" ray's (8jF 8.5jR/+30mm offset F  +33mm offset R/225/45 & 245/45 MPSS), slightly lower on Tein S springs (drop is small, -17mm F -14mm R) and Bilstein B6 shocks, DW adjustable front camber arms and just waiting for the Eibach adjustable ARB's.

Front

Camber:
-2°L

-2°R

Caster:
9° L
9
°11 R

Toe:
0
°02 L
0
°02 R

Rear

Camber
-1
°47 L
-1
°44 R

Toe:
0
°05 L
0
°04 R

Steer ahead:
0
°00

Thrust angle:
0
°00

Just wondering if that seems like a reasonable set up ?

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Reads good to me other than the high castor. I assume this is due to the cars rake unless you have adjustable control arms?

Hey Tony, many thanks for your input !

These are the adjustable upper camber arms I have:

http://www.driftworks.com/driftworks-front-camber-arms-nissan-350z.html

 

I forgot to mention I also have most of the front end with Prothane poly bushings installed (very good quality and price), the only one which isn't is the compression arm/rod which has a SuperPro bushing with adjustable caster.

SPF2849K

 

PDF here:

http://www.superpro.com.au/superpro-parts/?p=superpro-bushing-kit-spf2849k&view=part&id=SPF2849K&cid=999501121&vid=

 

As these were just installed onto new compression arms, they probably require a bit of adjustment.

 

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Once I get back to my Mum's place on the weekend I'll dig out some previous alignment print outs and see what's what.
 

I dug this out from the manual:

 
Caster
min 7.42deg
nominal 8.17deg
max 8.92deg
L/R diff. .75deg
 
So bringing it back to around 8.5 would be a bit better I guess.
Tony - I presume this is something you can do ? (I'm guessing the bushing needs pressing out and rotating?)
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Yeah it will and they work well albeit fiddly..... Castor needs to be backed off to 7 degrees 30' with -2 degrees camber and zero toe... At the moment the camber migration is to slow and on full lock it could hold on lock..... For example the cars we have in competitive Drift run -3 degrees front camber and 7 degrees castor any more would be detrimental.

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Many thanks for your help Tony, I'm still (obviously :lol:) learning and good to know these details  :)

I'll try and dial it in a bit better this weekend, if not much better I'll get myself booked in over to you when convenient. 

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Yes. The exsessive castor is almost holding the steering where it is.

 

The castor should be less so if you let go of the steering wheel during mid turn, the steering should self center.

 

With such a high castor the steering will want to 'hold' it position which could be rathef scary in an unexpected oversteer moment

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Using the centre adjuster i assume?

Exactly.

Where it was before seemed like it was putting a bit too much stress on that joint, now it's at -2 the thread 99% within the joint now. So I feel more confident with it there as well.

(it was only temporarily set there)

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A local place let me pop it up on their ramp with a Hunter machine but it was getting towards closing time.

It was weird, I got the camber pretty close, and one sides caster... However the opposite side caster got less and less.

I'll call tomorrow morning.

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That's the thing sometimes the camber adjuster needs to be set neutral or it's extended position acts like a push on the castor adjustment.

Yep - that definitely happened. My fault, totally - it's a bit of a balancing act I see  :blink:  :lol:

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