ExtremeFam07 Posted June 14, 2016 Report Share Posted June 14, 2016 Hello everyone, I need your help tony. My tires are being destroyed. First I know my caster is off as i need to replace the worn out caster bushings. I have planned on using these http://www.shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?route=product/product&path=42&product_id=87 However as reading from your post it seems as if the caster measurement is not good from factory so i wanted to know if you recommend me useing these instead http://www.shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?route=product/product&path=42&product_id=256 If so what position would need to be utilized to correct the factorys caster issue? My car is lowered on h&k springs so where should my other targets be for good tire wear? I have so many ququestions for you but not going to overload you with them all at once.😀 thank you Tony. I'm going to spread the word about this forum in the my.is forum as a lot of people need your help. As most accept this inner tire wear. 😖😕 I haven't seen a way to attach a picture on here to show the current geo. Is it due to the mobile layout? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 14, 2016 Report Share Posted June 14, 2016 Hello...... The problem isn't directly the castor it's the combination of the camber and castor on the corner or turn in the US Have you had the geometry measured since it was lowered? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted June 14, 2016 Report Share Posted June 14, 2016 You have come to the right place to get your tyre wear sorted I haven't seen a way to attach a picture on here to show the current geo. Is it due to the mobile layout? Only gold members can upload directly to the forum. You will need to upload the photo to a different host like dropbox, flickr etc and then embed it here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExtremeFam07 Posted June 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2016 You have come to the right place to get your tyre wear sorted I haven't seen a way to attach a picture on here to show the current geo. Is it due to the mobile layout? Only gold members can upload directly to the forum. You will need to upload the photo to a different host like dropbox, flickr etc and then embed it here Thank you. I would've been looking all over. Here are the current measurements. I know the caster is more than likely out due to worn LCA #2 bushings so the caster arms will be rebuilt with puly bushings before final alignment. Would i need another check after i rebuild them before final alignment? Here is my google drive folder with the current results. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B9kIt2xYEDHoVFE5RWFjYTJpZFE Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 15, 2016 Report Share Posted June 15, 2016 Hard to tell now if the issue was the worn bushings or the geometry but either was i would back the front camber off to -50' given where the rear cambers are sitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mperry Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 I found this site by trying to fix my IS tire wear as well. My last alignment came out with only -.50 camber on both sides and its still eating tires. I replaced the lower control arm bushings a couple years ago, (with the ones from Figs) and that helped tighten up turn-ins but not a lot with the tire wear. I am getting ready to head in for another alignment and was going to have then get camber closer to 0 and toe it in (just to even out the wear). If you're interested here are my current settings. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B4VErE53Si-pbF9hYktqUWh4aWM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 Hello Sadly the link won't open but whatever -50 is way to much... Did they run out of adjustment or has the car been lowered? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mperry Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 Thank you Tony, Apologies for the failed link. Here are the current settings. (All in degrees) Left Front Camber: -.50 Left Front Caster: 5.5 Left Front Toe: .04 Right Front Camber: -.50 Right Front Caster: 5.9 Right Front Toe: .05 Front Total Toe: .09 Left Rear Camber: -.50 Left Rear Toe: .15 Right Rear Camber: -.70 Right Rear Toe: .03 Rear Total Toe .18 My car is factory height so I doubt they ran out of adjustment. I think its more a matter of the light turned green on the machine (ie acceptable range) and the tech called it good. My thought is that since the cars are setup without weight the camber angle should be 0. Then adding passengers would cause the car to sag slightly giving it ever so little negative camber. I also think toe should be slightly in for straight line tracking but I do not know how much is enough or too much. Based on other cars I have owned, this one seems to naturally have a lot of caster, which should already give it straight line tracking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExtremeFam07 Posted August 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 Tony is the man he'll get it straightened out. I have yet to rebuild my caster arms yet as i had to put a clutch in my wife's car which ended up including both cv axels and all struts. So my car is next and I'll only get it aligned to your specs (Tony) remember for anyone else my car is lowered on H&R springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 Green is not the "acceptable range" like most places think, it's the dynamic range. We have a difference in measurement that being decimal degrees and degrees. Their front camber in my language is -30' which is still to deep. They need to set it at -15 to -25'. I get what you are saying about ballast but the IS suspension angle is more or less unaffected static whereas on some cars everything needs to be set including washer bottle and even gearbox oil level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mperry Posted August 24, 2016 Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 Thank you, I really appreciate getting it straight from experts. I am a couple weeks from getting it to shop, but I anticipate posting some funny antidotes about telling the techs where the settings need to be. Just as a side if anyone is curious (I had to look it up) here's how you convert decimal degrees to degrees. Decimal Degree = Degree + (M/60) + (s/3600), which translates the above camber settings to -.25 to -.41 in decimal degrees. (Just in case the tech doesnt know how to change his machine settings) Any thoughts on how much toe? (This is just my driver car, no track time) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted August 25, 2016 Report Share Posted August 25, 2016 I work with 60'/ degree, your measurements are 100'/ degree.... The toe target remains the same but the castor will increase indirectly as the camber is changed, this is fine even if it goes outside the Lexus datum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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